It was often said that The Queen’s style often reflected the state of the nation, do you agree? Her colourful outfits deliberately chosen to help her stand out in a crowd – that’s the power of colour. I miss her visual statements and hoping she’s resting in peace.
I discovered recently that when she married, her Norman Hartnell wedding gown was paid using clothing ration coupons, due to measures in place following World War Two.
Clothing rations
Clothes were rationed in 1941. The rationing scheme allocated a ‘point’ value to each clothing type based upon how much material and labour went into the manufacture of the garment. Imagine if this was in place now!
Dresses – 11
Stockings – 2
Shoes – 5
Jacket – 12
Jumper/cardigan – 5
Knickers – 3
Skirt – 8
Trousers – 8
Shirt/blouse – 4
Every adult was given 66 points, which unfortunately reduced over time. From 1 September 1945 to 30 April 1946 only 24 coupons were issued which meant only 3 coupons a month could be used. People were encouraged to be frugal with their coupons so they would last the year. Seasonal and weather changes were highly recommended to be considered to ensure the best garment was chosen to last.
This meant that careful planning was essential but likely meant some people went without. How would you have spent yours?
Each item was bought with the appropriate number of coupons plus money. Each garment sold, whether it be a dress or a pair of underwear, would have the same standard coupon cost but that didn’t determine the cash value cost. So, those who were wealthier could purchase a very high-quality garment that would last a long time, whilst others had to settle for an inexpensive garment which wouldn’t last very long, for the same coupon.
At the time, fashion magazine Vogue were on hand to offer advice which is still great advice for today!:
Put your money into one good outfit and vary it with accessories
The average wardrobe
The English Heritage reported that in the early 1940s, the average wardrobe of a middleclass woman consisted of:
Dresses – 7
Two-piece suits – 2-3
Skirts – 2-3
Overcoats – 3
Mackintosh – 1 (as in ‘Mac’)
Shoes – 5 pairs split between the seasons
By comparison, a poorer woman may have:
Dresses – 3
Skirt – 1
Overcoats – 1-2
Shoes – 1-2 pairs
Both sound like a ‘capsule wardrobe’, but how do these compare to what you have in your wardrobe?
Make Do and Mend
The ‘Make Do and Mend’ campaign encouraged people to make their existing clothing last longer by repairing, reusing and repurposing fabric and garments into new outfits. This gave freedom for some to diversify and be more creative with what they had. Something which still occurs today of course.
Nowadays, it’s thought that over one million tonnes of clothes are thrown away each year. It’s estimated that 95% of the textiles binned in the UK could have been reused or recycled! So very different from 80 years ago.
Utility clothing
In 1942 the government introduced a scheme called ‘utility clothing’. It offered a range of well-designed, quality and price-controlled clothes, affordable to everyone. It was also the first time that high-end fashion designers were making clothes for the mass market. Of course, this set a precedent long after the war which we still see today.
The Utility scheme ended in 1952 and was thought to have given consumers confidence to demand value for money as well as higher standards in materials and manufacture within the fashion industry as a whole.
The development of Fast Fashion
Mass-market production isn’t new, yet the amounts being produced has increased hugely. Clothing was generally produced to sell for the forthcoming seasons – spring, summer, autumn and winter, which made planning and prediction of trends much easier. Today, there can be as many as 52-micro-seasons as manufacturers and retailers increase their product range in an attempt to increase sales. But, this hasn’t meant the best quality or fair prices for all involved in the process (ie. the workers).
I’ve always said that I’m not a fashion stylist. It’s not my thing. I’m not a slave to fashion, but I keep an eye on things. I aim to buy what I need and encourage my clients to do the same. Having so much choice can be overwhelming which is why I believe in simply making better, more informed choices.
How to make better choices
Understanding what suits you is key to helping you make these choices. After all, when you know what colours suit you, how to dress your shape and proportions, and reflecting your individual style, you can minimise the noise. The ability to make or alter your own clothes is a fantastic skill to have, but you’ve still got to have the knowledge on what’s right for you in the first place, or you can make mistakes too.
Alongside my consultations, I offer ongoing advice through my seasonal updates, twice a year. This coincides with spring/summer and autumn/winter which is roughly when the the clothes change. It’s not about encouraging you to make further purchases you don’t need and won’t wear. Instead I want to inspire you to plan, wear and buy what you need, from wherever works for you. Use the information to create your own clothes, shop pre-loved and charities and try the many rental marketplaces too.
These options simply weren’t an option to the ladies decades ago, but they are now. Plus, you’ll no doubt find something in your wardrobe which is similar to what’s ‘new’, especially if you invested in better quality pieces.
Back in the 40’s and 50’s, you were encouraged to be more mindful of your wardrobes and inventive with what you had. I encourage you to do the same today and my advice will help you gain the knowledge on what suits you so you get more wear out of your clothes.
References:
The book: Fashion Conscious by Sarah Klymkiw and Kim Hankinson is a remarkable read if you’re looking for a way to change your habits with clothes.
Thanks to www.english-heritage.org.uk, Fashion Conscious Book by Sarah Klymkiw and Kim Hankinson, www.iwm.org.uk, www.fabrickated.com and https://www.royal.uk for the enlightening reads and providing my sources.